Terminus

Here are the infamous orange shoes - caked in mud from two days of tromping along the wet paths.  I donned them for the final 8km trek into Santiago this morning.

I opened the curtains in the room and saw to my delight that the sun was shining and the sky looked very promising.  No rain shield for the pack today.  It´s the small things.

I walked for several kilometers until I reached a somewhat famous spot, high on a hill overlooking Santiago, Monte do Gozo.  On clear days (of which this was not entirely, Santiago had low cloud cover) one can see the spires of the Cathedral.  Nevertheless, it was a beautiful spot and notable for punctuating the end of the trail.  Many smiles exuding relief to be found on faces of the many trekkers passing through.

Monte do Grozo, memorial commemorating visit of Pope John Paul II

Lots of bicyclists on the Camino.  Two fellows here this morning, visibly happy and relieved to be nearing Santiago.  I completely understand.

Among the several trekkers there, I spotted the young couple pushing the stroller with their infant son.  I had seen them several days before on the trail, in the rain, only then they were draped in ponchos.  Today I got to see them without their gear.  They were quite happy to be nearing the end.  They had started at SJPP, on the French side of the Pyrenees.  What an undertaking.

As I proceed down the steep trail the last 4.7 kilometers into Santiago, I reflect on the multitude of thoughts and insights, when all of a sudden I hear from behind me:  "Is that Peggy?"  Few people call me Peggy - I prefer not to be called that.  However, a small group of Australian women with whom I had dinner one evening call me Peggy.  I´ve chosen to let them since Australians seem to add the -y /-ee ending to almost everything.  So...  In any event, I turned around to discover the tiny woman, Claire, from Gold Coast Australia.

She was delighted to find me.  We had thought our paths would intersect yesterday, but I walked farther than anyone thought I would.  I had told them to look for my orange shoes.  Sure enough, that was what Claire spotted.  And I must say, I have not seen another pair of orange shoes on the Camino.  It pays to be an oddball.

So Claire and I walked in to Santiago together. And for the first time, the signs of the trail became much more difficult to find - too much urban distraction.

We made our way to the Pilgrim Center - how many cities can claim to have one of them?  After standing in line which resembled a small United Nations, I received my certificate of completing the Camino, the Compostela, and a Distance Credential.  There you have it, I´m legitimate.  It´s not why I did it, but it´s nice to look at.  And who is in line ahead of me but that couple with the infant son in the stroller.  That´s how so many experiences have been:  we meet, depart only to run into each other once again.  Sweet.  Not necessarily that we chat, socialize or anything in depth - but with that couple I had specifically asked after the baby and the mother had chatted briefly with me as I passed.  Then when we spotted each other in the line, we shared a momentary spark of recognition.  Sweet.  The baby´s name, by the way, is Kaspar.  He was very happy.

There are so many things that I´ve not mentioned but have been quite inspirational or mind boggling, but then I go to write this and have completely forgotten these things.  There was the blind woman and her companion merrily walking and singing along the path.  The companion leading with the blind woman pulling a little cart behind.  Stunning.  This path is NOT easy in the best of situations.  Then there was an older gentleman pushing a cart with his pack.  Still I cannot imagine that.  And he was moving as if there wasn´t a care in the world weighing him down.  Then there was the group of adults with obvious cognitive impairments being shepherded by a couple of counselors, through the driving rain, along this trail in the middle of nowhere - they were from a program in Madrid.  And the group of praying nuns, singing out the prayers in response to the leader.

Interesting and remarkable.  That´s just some of the things.  I´m happy to have made the friends I´ve made.  We have shared some very interesting and deep thoughts and perspectives.

That´s it for now - wifi is not working at the hotel I´m staying at, so I cannot upload more pictures until I can connect via my phone.

Until later...thanks for joining me on this path.

What's the rush? Slow down.

When I woke I heard this question: What's the rush?  After two days of

long hours and tough routes, I realized I really needn't push so hard.

The morning's walk was a lovely, quiet amble.  I hardly needed the poles.  The air was cool and breezy.  Lovely.

I've not been a person greatly attracted to poetry let alone given to crafting it, but there I was with lines popping into my head:

The leaves dancing in the breeze, singing come, come.

The aromatic eucalyptus celebrate meditative paths.

And

Crunch, crunch the Orange shoes traveling the path.

I told you I'm not a poet, but these weren't my designs, they came to me whole.  Clearly my attention is required.

I started this on Wednesday and didn't finish, so here I continue.

If I were a real power house, I would be in Santiago after tomorrow.  I'm not, so most likely Sunday.

What fool said there were no more ascents or descents?  There have been and will continue to be until Santiago.  Just not as dreadful as first few days.

 Lovely woman and her daughter from Ireland,( County Clare) -chatted me up at lunch yesterday. So many lovely folks.   However...

 I had intended on staying at that Albergue for the night (upper bunk) but the gentleman on the lower bunk was really quite unpleasant and after much reflection I decided to push on another 4km.   And hope f or a bottom bunk.

I'm pleased that walking isn't as hard as it was in the beginning.  I AM SLOW.

 

Well, I knew my pace was slow, and it doesn't matter because it's what this body can do.

Set off this morning at 6:30. Long way to walk...for me.  And it rained for four hours straight.  I was grateful to be from the PNW.  The only real drawback was my glasses steaming up.


OK the photos inserted up above and I can't seem to get them to move around.  I'm tired, sorry.  I'm trying to take it moment by moment but now I'm ready to be done.  Lots of people on the trail today and yesterday...Lots of chatter.

I chatted with a fellow from Michigan last night.  He started at the starting point in France, just across the Pyrenees.  He was eager to soak to an American.  Grumpy is an adjective I'd use to describe him.  But he has walked almost 700 km.  So I suppose he's entitled.  I was just kind of surprised by his irritation.

Anyway, that's it for now.  No brilliant insights.  I keep telling folks, when asked my motivation for waking, that I need to re set my life.  Here's pRaying, fervently that that is what comes of this.

Thanks for your love and support.

TTFN

Relief

Spotty connectivity and overwhelming exhaustion have meant I haven't written a new post on the blog.  I am presently in Melide, about 50  km(?) from Santiago.  The weather has changed and is much quicker and cooler.  We had some light rain yesterday; it looks like rain tomorrow.

From Mograde I walked to Portomarin, 10km.  The walk was lovely, rolling trail though woods, farmland and little hamlets.  Setting of before the sun was fully up, I walked for several km until a lovely little albergue and cafe.  I stopped in for the requisite stamp on the Camino "passport," and for breakfast.  Sucha charming quiet place, again, in the middle of no place.  Three lovely young girls were finishing up their coffee con leches, toast, and orange juice (a standard on the Camino).  We chatted and recognized we were all Americans:  They from Wheaton college.  They were surprised I knew of it.  We shared motivations for doing the Camino.  They were surprised I was doing it solo.  Lovely girls, charming, and effusive supportive of this clearly old lady.doing this.  They invited me to join them, so nice.  I explained I was walking far too slowly, but thank you.

What I didn't say was I am pretty much enjoying my quiet time and I don't think it would be the same with waking partners.

Passing through a little hamlet Saturday morning, clearly life is slower and quieter...I walked by a house with a little boy hanging over the stone fence.  He happily said hello and I responded.  A charming little interaction.

I came upon Portomarin in late morning and stopped for the day at a private albergue.  The room had a line of 12 bunk beds, head to foot.  Nice and clean, and quiet, until the Italian cyclists.  :-)

I met and chatted with a lovely couple from Donegal.  Just the nicest folks.  We all went to bed early...well, not the Italian cyclists. :-) So many interesting approaches to life.

Up and off the next morning at 6:30, way before the sun came up.

 Good thing too, who knew it was going to be a day of unrelenting ascents and no source of shade.

 This was a pretty, but empty trail for the most part, until Gonzar, about 6 or 7 km along.  Slogging up that slope, pausing every 40 steps and catching my breath, two women from Texas came up from behind me and we chatted our way up to the cafe, along with several dozen other folks.  Brenda and Beth, niece and aunt, but pretty much the same age.  Nice women.  We shared biographic information and motivation f or waking the Camino.  We spent maybe 30 minutes together but boy we got straight to the heart of the matter. Once finished, they were off enthusiastically striking up again.

I pulled on my pack again and recommenced slogging.  It was a slow, slow day, sweating buckets.  And when I didn't think I could do one more km, out of nowhere there was a little cafe and alongside it a municipal albergue.  Just in time for it to.open at 1:00.

Here at the same time were three women: Majbrit of Denmark, Erin of Canada, and Annika of Germany.  We struck up conversation, aged to share the laundry facilities, formed a team for the next few hours.  Lovely women with interesting things to share.

This Albergue accommodated 30 people, and it filed up fairly rapidly.  I'm glad we were the first registered...it's all about access to resources.

Early the next morning we were on our ways, each with a different destination and pace.  I had a great day walking.  I was surprised that I was going to make it in too Palas de Rei, a much greater distance than I anticipated.

Along the way, I met and chatted with an older woman identifying herself as being from Allemagne.  However, her English was much better than my German, so we had a sweet chat until I could no longer keep her pace.

It's these drive by conversations that are so amazingly rewarding.  No names, no information, just some lovely kind of intimate exchange.

I hobbled into Palas de Rei, found a room for the night and went out to find food.  I walked  into a cafe and who do I find but Majbrit.  So lovely to run into someone and continue the conversations previously started.

On the trail this morning, heading to Melide, an ambitious 15 km, walking along in my quiet reverie when someone says my name and it's Erin.  Again, lovely to meet up this new friend.  Of course, my pace is slower than hers, but the connection was great for the time it lasted.

As we walk, we constantly are passing or being passed by many people.  (Let's be serious, it's me who's being passed.)  Most of the time folks acknowledge you with a hello, a Buenas Dias, Hola, bonjour or Buen Camino.  There are fewer and fewer stretches of solitude now.  I guess I really mean emptiness, not solitude.

The last 3km today we're quite rough, and I guess I must have looked the part.  Several people were kind enough to ask if  I was doing okay.

So kind to be seen and acknowledged.  And I'm grateful that my body seems to be holding up just fine.  I look a mess when I finish for the day, but I make it to the destination.  I may be hobbling, but I do make it.

So much to reflect on.  Grateful for the love and support of many.

TTFN

What´s worse than going uphill? Downhill.

Sparkling water from Galicia

10k, that´s how far I got today.  And, boy, howdy, the albergue where I´m staying (which is the only thing out in the middle of nothing but farm lands) came along just when I was certain I would not be able to take one more step.  In fact, I was praying mighty hard for the building around the curve to be an albergue and not a private residence.  I´m not sure what I would have done, I´m thinking it might have involved crying.

I know I said my pace would be slow, but I had NO idea!  Let´s just say it took the better part of the day to trudge the 10k.  I have not calculated the elevation gain, but it was a slow and steady uphill interspersed with a small number of downhills.  I had envisioned myself going a turtle´s pace; however, I think it´s more likely a SNAIL´s pace.  

So much time to spend thinking about anything, but to be honest, I spent the majority of the time concentrating on taking the next step, and counting those steps until I let myself stop and stand still for a brief moment.  This went on for five and a half hours.  You do the math.  The only record I´m establishing is that for being the slowest.  But I am carrying that pack, and even though I was trying to make it as light as possible, it´s still heavy.  

I had much opportunity to rue carrying that pack as many tens of people passed me by carrying only a little ditty bag, a small daypack, or nothing at all!  To them, I shouted in my mind, Show Off!  Of course, I have no earthly idea what the heck their story was.  Certainly a number of them were members of tour groups with luggage transport and other arrangements being made.  It still rankled to see those somewhat elderly folks flying by merrily shouting to me: Bonjour!  Rapidly disappearing down the trail as I went back to counting my steps and concentrating on right placement of my walking sticks.  (A bit of tongue in cheek here, just in case anyone is unable to discern that...)

Everyone in the Camino Pilgrim online group keeps saying the Camino will provide.  However, there has been quite a bit of hysteria in shares about availability of rooms/beds along the Camino since it´s become so popular.  (A little bitterness expressed by the veterans, it seems ... always able to find collectives where the newbies are scorned by the veterans.)  Anyway, I was wondering how it would play out since I didn´t make prior reservations - and good thing, too, because how could I calculate my pace correctly in Seattle?  I keep digressing, sorry.  Anyway, the albergue in Sarria last night, had two rooms of bunks, one with eight bunks, the other with 12.  So of the 20 bunks available, only 5 were taken.  So, as in many situations, the hysteria might have been unnecessary.

I should tell you that while last night´s albergue itself was a nice quiet place, that bunk room rocked with the sound of a thousand buzz saws!  We all snored.  The difference among the snorers was very interesting.  Even though I had ear plugs in, it was quite intense.  Although I immediately went to embarrassment, I had to remind myself that everyone else snored as well.  Working on that care of self thing.

Tonight I will be in a room by myself as all the beds in the bunk room were taken and I just could not walk another step let alone another couple of kilometers to get to another albergue.  I figure it´s another way the universe is taking care of me:  I´ll certainly sleep better given I´ll be the only occupant, and I´ve become accustomed to my snoring.  =)

I have some lovely photos, but I can´t upload them from this computer, and there is no wifi, so it´s a project for a future date.

TTFN

The Kindness of Strangers

Yesterday, after only 3 hours of sleep, I arose and made for heading out to Sarria.  Not before, however, assistance getting all my equipment on (backpack and fanny/daypack) from Norma.  So sweet, Norma, she scolded me about what she thought was the weight of the backpack.

Then two subway transfers later I was at the main Bus Station; along with a few other hundreds of folks.  While waiting for the departure time, I attempted to mail some postcards.  I only succeeded because one kind fellow took me by hand and walked me down the street, through the shopping mall, down the elevator to the basement post office - I would NEVER have found it.  I´m very grateful for all the many kindnesses I experience in my everyday bumbling around as a stranger in this strange land.

Riding the bus was an act of faith.  In purchasing the ticket, I discovered there were several options with the name Lugo in them.  Hmmm.  Not a matter of translation, merely a matter of not knowing anything about locations in Spain.  Fortunately, I opted for the correct one.  Of course, I didn´t know that until I actually found myself in the town itself.  

The countryside along the way was so very beautiful: a mixture of northern California and eastern Washington, very verdant, at least now.  Perhaps not later in the summer?  I observed lots of wind turbines and solar panel arrays--communities, large and small, as well as in private estates/farms.  So sensible.  I wonder at the continued resistance in the US to swing full scale into these alternatives.

I chanced to see a cluster of houses built into a collective of berms.  Very intriguing and quite attractive.  Very alternative.

Lots of sheep grazing placidly without a care in the world.

On arriving at Lugo, I again required assistance in finding the "centrally" located hotel.  It helps to know the lay of the land...and the maps I´ve consulted haven´t been great in assistance.  Anyway, with great pantomiming by the information attendant and really poor Spanish abilities on my part (forget about Portugese, which seems to be the decided influence in Lugo), I struck off on my walk with more confidence in my strides than I had inside.

I walked down alongside an ancient Medieval fortification.  I looked at the gazillion stones, of varying shapes  - indicating some being intentionally mined and shaped and others being found and used as is - and wondered how many men over how many hours, days, and years were required to build it.

Several people spoke to me as I walked by.  It´s an oddity to see a Pelegrino walking from the bus station down through town?  Well, I WAS going in the wrong direction.  I am sure they thought I was an errant Pelegrina.  One man, walking his dog, stopped and informed me the Camino was in the opposite direction.  I explained I was looking for the hotel.  He shared his surprise that I was staying in a hotel.  Amusing.  I'm doing everything wrong.  I explained - or attempted - that I would start Thursday from Sarria.  In any event, he walked me close to the hotel, so kind.  And believe me, I need all the help I can get and am learning to gratefully receive it.

Today I woke and took the train to Sarria.  What a very lovely ride.  Sarria, I started looking for the traces/signs.  Again, several people kindly pointed me in the correct direction.  And if I thought directions were my single challenge, I met my first hillside stairway up to the albergues, in the heat, with the backpack on.  Hmm.  This is REAL.

I neglected to start the blog with my intended motto for the journey - I read it in something Anne Lamott wrote:  START SLOW AND TAPER OFF.  The heat and the hills and stairs might very well be enforcing that motto.

Many Germans around...I have yet to run into many English speakers.  I´ve observed a vast array of shapes and sizes in people and backpacks.  I´m happy to say I do not have the largest/heaviest bag.  I´ve seen many women with huge backpacks and they walk along as if they don´t have a care in the world - in the heat!  Okay, if they can do it so can I.  I´m just going to do it SLOWLY.

I´m typing this from a more ancient computer today, so amazingly slow.  Inserting photos will not happen today.  I will post pictures on FB from my phone.

Okay, it´s 7pm and I shall go in search of an early supper for tomorrow I need to hit the path before the sun turns to a furnace.

Live and well and feeling blessed.

What´s the difference between an alley and a street?

The day started with a simple breakfast at the B&B with other guests, a couple from The Netherlands headed to Galicia (Muxia), and a woman from Key West, FL.  Lovely to sit and chat and share.

Then off to explore Madrid further.  I  struck out aiming for Park retiro, but allowed for many distractions along the way.  When I first arrived at the B&B, Eduardo pointed out numerous things on a small Xeroxed map.  In explaining locations and length of walks, he merrily would say, "it's a 25 minute walk, unless you pause, then it takes hours."  I walked all over Madrid for  9 hours.

One of my distractions was a yarn shop where not one person spoke English.  I managed to buy a hank of yarn and a hook.  We'll see what comes of it.  We'll, I should tell you that I spent several hours tonight trying to roll that hank into a ball.  Most of it is finally ruled up, but I think I'm going too be working on the remaining tangle tomorrow evening.  I'm sure there's a lesson in there.

A few minor irritations:  most of technical natures...accessing bank account with ATM card, or rather unable to access it.  Hmmm.  And then I have no earthly idea how to make a call out to the US.  The salesperson gave me a demonstration, but I guess I was way too gone with flight exhaustion to have it register.  I guess this is going to be another ongoing adventure.

I spent a long time at a HUGE park this afternoon - Park Retiro.  Lots of people watching going on.  Lots of local folks strolling and sitting.  I don´t think we in the US do enough strolling and sitting in parks on an everyday basis.

So many outdoor cafes.  So many plazas.  Lovely spots to sit and relax and socialize with people.

Plaza Mayor today was abuzz with lots of activity.  Lots of people dressed up as various popular characters: Charlie Chaplin, Minnie Mouse, Bart Simpson, Mickey Mouse.  Be prepared to pay for the privilege of taking a photo.  Charlie Chaplin chased me and spoke - informing me I needed to pay.  Lesson learned.

I had an interesting "sensitive" yogurt with aloe vera

Planes, trains, autobuses

Awoke at oh-dark thirty, after a scant 3 hours sleep, for my 7 am flight.  It's always puzzling to me what to pack...what's too much, what isn't right, what I'm overlooking.  I'm going to be carrying this backpack for the next 30 days, so I really wanted to be ruthless in my selection.

After lots of research...maybe too much...I have a minimal wardrobe; none really appropriate for Madrid.  I looked quite the spectacle wandering around on buses, subway and on foot consulting my minimalist map.  Several kind people asked if I needed assistance.  Amazingly I did not; I just looked astray.
:-)

I'm staying at a sweet little bed and breakfast run be a husband and wife: Eduardo and Norma.  He's loquacious and charming, speaking English with great ease.  She is much quieter, apologizing for poor English.  I wish I were as skillful in Spanish as she is in English though..

After resting, I'm off to see if I can find my way back...well, not really.  I'm going to go walk around and see wI'mhat I can see. I only hope I can find my way back.

Bye for now.

Peg

Pre-departure

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I have been doodling spirals for a very, very long time, never investigating why. I wondered, and continued to doodle. 

In less than 48 hours I depart to walk yet another Path: the Camino de Santiago. So, I decided to set up this blog to which I can post pictures and thoughts/descriptions for friends who might be interested. I went in search of title and images for the blog. My first thought was the spirals. Perhaps it’s time to explore further — so many double meanings…

Spiral — The Spiral, which is the oldest symbol known to be used in spiritual practices, reflects the universal pattern of growth and evolution. The spiral represents the goddess, the womb, fertility and life force energy. Reflected in the natural world, the Spiral is found in human physiology, plants, minerals, animals, energy patterns, weather, growth and death. The Spiral is a sacred symbol that reminds us of our evolving journey in life. When used as a personal talisman, the Spiral helps consciousness to accept the turnings and changes of life as it evolves. The acceptance of change is one of the greatest freedoms a human can experience, putting consciousness in the present moment where the power of creation is condensed. On a larger scale, using this symbol assures all beings are reminded of their inward and outward evolution, a balanced and centered state of mind. On water, it carries the power to flow and change. (Emphasis added)

There you have it:  the subconscious (spirit) knew long before the conscious. So here I go, off to journey farther (further) along the inward/outward path. (Will I be able to continue writing this because I stumble on sticky grammatical issues presented such as farther v. further above? Perhaps it’s one of the many things of which I’m in need of letting go.)

More to come.

Buen Camino — 5.9.2014

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